|Buffalo mozzarella and a curl of pickled anchovy on a bed of vine-ripe tomato, Bt400|
At first glance, the all-black dining room of Deco Bar & Bistro may look like a cliche. But this certainly is not just another new bistro in town. Overlooking a quiet stretch of the Chao Phraya river through a beautiful antique Thai traditional house, Deco Bar & Bistro at The Siam attains its own reason to be. And the reason is nothing but the glorious food – comforting food cooked and served in a new fancy and contemporary fashion.
A cozy and glamorous place to eat thanks to its posh location, Deco Bar & Bistro suits those looking for a new hangout place that serves tasty and good quality food from breakfast (they make their own lovely breads and bakery), lunch and dinner with dishes extending from snacks to hearty favorites. This is the breakfast quarter for the hotel’s guests, but those looking for a good western-style meal can come here for lunch, tucking into their variety of pastas, cold and hot sandwiches or even pizzas. You can also check in for a full scrumptious meal like we did, whenever you feel like it.
|Portobello mushroom panna cotta served with grilled asparagus, roasted walnut and basil oil, Bt420|
We began our big meal with three appetizers. First, the very refreshing classic salad of ripe tomato, mozzarella cheese and basil dressed with aged balsamic. Dainty with a curl of white anchovy on top of the tomato bed, the salad tasted as fresh as it looked with a special tang from the pickled fish that brightened the creamy mozzarella bites and the deep sweetness of the aged balsamic. The anchovy, or boquerones en vinagre, as chef Blair explained, is a famous out-of-the-tin tapas in south Spain that goes wonderfully with a glass of white wine. The speckles that you see on top of the tomato was the chef’s special homemade dried black olives that added a subtle and aromatic saltiness to the dish.
|Twice-baked goat cheese souffle, Bt420|
A native of New Zealand, Chef Blair has accumulated various recipes along his globe-trotting cooking routes, and among those well-kept recipes of his includes the lovely portobello mushroom panna cotta. If you normally view panna cotta as a mere dessert, this is the time you to try its equally impressive savoury version. The chef explained that panna cotta is so versatile a dish with its mild milk-and-cream combination easy to be adapted with a good variety of ingredients. In this case, the chef cooked it with finely-chopped portobello mushroom that lent a unique aroma along with some onion and garlic. The panna cotta was a perfect background to the crunchiness of walnut, grilled asparagus and basil oil. A real tasty innovation.
If you like cheese, especially the sharp ones like I do, try the twice-baked goat cheese souffle that was so rich and creamy that I immediately forgot to check my daily calorie intake. Whipping an Australian goat cheese with egg white to make a souffle, the chef baked the cheese in a mold just to firm it before baking it again outside on its own ladled with creamy white sauce and heaps of Parmesan cheese. Hence, the name twice-baked – a wonderful small dish to share, anytime.
|Steak Frites, Bt1,620|
Being a good chef means much more than performing well in the kitchen. Talking to any chef and you know that the most important part of their great food production is to procure the best ingredients available. A case in point is the steak frites prepared from Australian Jacks Creek’s Black Angus rib eye. With such excellent piece of meat, the best way to plate it is with a simple grill and a good knob of house-made cafe de paris butter. “This is such a perfect steak,” said chef Blair. “There’s nothing to be done but to cook it right.”
The beef was deliciously juicy with a mild aromatic beef flavour. The portion is big and you get a full meal with the serving frites. Simple, classic and comforting.
|Pan-roasted ocean trout served with pickled greens and mint yoghurt, Bt810|
If you want to keep it light and healthy, a good choice on the menu is the fabulous ocean trout from the cold water of the Tasman Sea. The trout’s gorgeous pink fillet might often be mistaken for salmon, but the trout’s skin finer and its meat milder in taste. A real gorgeous fish on its own. Chef Blair made a perfectly crispy skin and there’s no better way to serve it than with freshly pickled fennel, crunchy green beans and radish dressed lightly with mint yoghurt.
|Berry pavlova, Bt350|
We finished our meal with the chef’s national pride – pavlova – a meringue-based dessert named after a famous Russian ballerina who made a tour to Australia and New Zealand in the 1920s. While the nationality of its creator still remains a topic of discussion, pavlova the dessert has already gained a global recognition as an all-time favorite dessert. Served with fresh and compote berries in a pool of vanilla custard cream, Deco Bar & Bistro’s pavlova looked and tasted scrumptious. The meringue crispy on the outside and sweet and chewy on the inside – a perfect texture of the dessert achieved in part by a good mastering of the oven.
|Deco Bar & Bistro from its second floor with guests enjoying light lunch|
|Deco Bar & Bistro’s cozy ambiance suits any hearty meal of the day|
Deco Bar & Bistro is open daily from 06:00-22.30. For reservation, call T: 02-206-6999.